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Old Aug 13, 2010, 1:03 PM   #31
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Oh and by the way - i would consider the Tamron to be a poor solution for the indoor work. 2.8 often isn't fast enough for non flash work - 2.0 or wider is definitely better for shallow dof and available light. I skip right over 2.8 when doing my indoor family work - if I need wide apertures I go to my 1.8 lenses. If I'm using flash and don't need shallow dof, then an f5.6 lens can be just fine. So, for the stated purposes, I don't see the tamron giving the OP a whole lot above the kit lens so it's not IMO a great investment off the bat.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 3:08 PM   #32
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If he wants to shoot indoors, the canon is the best option if you go with no flash. The largest selection of fast primes at f2 or better in different ranges.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 4:10 PM   #33
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Sony just announced a new Zeiss 24mm f/2.0 and a 35mm f/1.8, which levels the playing field a little. (They also announced an 85mm f/2.8, which is an odd choice.) Add that to Sony's 50/1.8, 135/1.8, 35/1.4, 85/1.4, and 50/1.4.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 4:27 PM   #34
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canon 50 1.2, 50 1.4, 50 1.8, 24 1.4, 28 1.8, 35 1.4, 35 f2, 85 1.8, 85 1.2. 100 f2, 135 f2, 200 f2. And if canon comes out with the 35 1.8 that is rumor, sony is still way behind.
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Last edited by shoturtle; Aug 13, 2010 at 4:30 PM. Reason: forgot about the 35 f2
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 4:29 PM   #35
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A comment on SR/IS: I shoot a Pentax K20D which, as y'all know, has in-body SR. I use that SR extensively. I am very very happy that EVERY lens I attach to the K20D is stabilized. BUT... the manual warns (more than once) that SR "may not work" with very close subjects or slow shutter speeds. With a 50mm or 90mm macro lens at 1:1, handheld even in good light with a fairly fast shutter, I'm uncertain how much SR helps or hurts. With a 35mm lens reversed on bellows extended as far out as 140mm, I don't trust SR at all -- I use a 'pod or other steady mount.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 4:59 PM   #36
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Quote:
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Oh and by the way - i would consider the Tamron to be a poor solution for the indoor work. 2.8 often isn't fast enough for non flash work - 2.0 or wider is definitely better for shallow dof and available light. I skip right over 2.8 when doing my indoor family work - if I need wide apertures I go to my 1.8 lenses. ...
Getting multiple subjects within the shallow depth of field of an f/1.8 aperture must be tough.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 5:05 PM   #37
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it is sometimes, and it is not, depending on how you set the shot up. These were taking at an angle at 1.8
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 6:17 PM   #38
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Quote:
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IS is nice but severely over hyped. It is a nice to have. But you can really live without it.
I agree about over hyped up to a point. It certainly has its place.

The use of long lenses dominates my photography, and for the most part stabilization is turned off. When I'm in woods under canopy, or when shooting in early morning or late afternoon, it allows a couple stops lower ISO as long as the subject isn't too active. As I said, it has its place.

The "in body" vs. "in lens" is also a red herring in my opinion. Sure, you have more lenses than cameras, but the cameras tend to be upgraded much more often. Six of one and a half dozen of the other. It really doesn't make that much difference in my opinion.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 6:21 PM   #39
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I agree, I use IS all the time when shooting on the long end of my zooms. In 2 of the shooting situation I shoot in IS does help. In very low light and on long end of telezooms. But I agree light is the most important in macro. Tripod for true 1:1, and for hand held close up the larger 2.8 of a true macro can negate the need for IS.
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Old Aug 13, 2010, 6:24 PM   #40
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The IS of my oly epl-1 with the panny 20mm 1.7 at 1600iso, lets it shoot in low light like my canon t1i with the 28mm 1.8 at 3200iso on static subjects in very low light handheld.
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Last edited by shoturtle; Aug 13, 2010 at 8:47 PM.
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