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Old Sep 13, 2010, 1:09 AM   #41
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The auto focus system of the epl-1 just can not match the AF system of the T1i for action. It is okay for moderate action, but for true sport shooting it is not it strength.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 1:41 AM   #42
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I'm going to try the canon tomorrow and continue to read. Thanks for all your help. I'll probably be back with more questions.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 4:53 AM   #43
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dslr were really design for allot of pp editing, that is why they do not process that much. ...
That's a bit of an oversimplification.

P&S cameras overprocess images in the camera so that 4x6 prints look good, and this is a competitive market and each manufacturer wants their camera to look better than other cameras. The result is that 4x6 prints look ok, but 8x10 prints show the artifacts from the oversharpening and the exaggerated color and contrast. dSLRs don't play with those settings as much, so what you get from a dSLR (at its default settings) is a purer rendition of the scene, rather than something that jumps out at you but is an inaccurate portrayal.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 4:57 AM   #44
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... I haven't used auto yet, but P mode works great, and I have tried messing around with the other modes to see what it can do. The people on this forum give great advice and it is true to just play around with it to learn. But since the photos come out great in P mode, I think auto would do fine too, ...
If you're comfortable with P, then don't bother with AUTO. P remembers your preferences from one session to the next, while AUTO starts over with its own camera settings each time. Also, you can generally adjust the exposure settings in P, but not in AUTO.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 10:10 AM   #45
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If you're comfortable with P, then don't bother with AUTO. P remembers your preferences from one session to the next, while AUTO starts over with its own camera settings each time. Also, you can generally adjust the exposure settings in P, but not in AUTO.

Yeah I won't bother with auto because auto will force you to use a flash, won't it? I found where you can adjust the exposure settings in P too. I guess it just takes getting used to to see how much to adjust them. Same with the metering. So if there is a bright background, like maybe someone is in the shadows or something and it is very bright behind them, is that where you use the partial metering instead of evaluative?
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 11:05 AM   #46
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Every modern camera has matrix metering, which uses the entire scene (or a very large part of it) to determine the exposure settings that are needed. Every modern camera also has center weighted metering, which uses the entire scene, but (as the name implies) gives greater weight to the center of the scene. Lastly, every modern camera has spot metering, where only the very center of the image is used to determine the exposure settings. Some cameras will allow you to adjust the size of the spot, and move the spot to correspond to a selected focus point.

First and foremost, you want faces to be properly exposed. For shooting subjects on a stage, you need to expose for the faces, and that usually means spot meetering.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 11:30 AM   #47
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The epl-1 is good for everything but action and very low light shooting. ...
By the time you exclude action and low light shooting, you basically end up with "good in daylight under sunny sky conditions".
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 12:12 PM   #48
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I did not say low light, I said very low light. It works well in low light conditions like the paris night shots at 2000iso. When I talk about very low light, I am talking about 1/30 with a fast prime at the widest aperture and at 3200 to 6400iso.

It will take indoor party shots, and night shots without issue, as my threads I have post in the pass show.

It will not shoot my very low light dancing that I shoot quite often. As I need to shoot at 6400iso allot. When it is in the black in club environments. So there is low light, and very low light. There is a difference.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 12:33 PM   #49
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Well, my experience with the EPL1 has been slightly different. Shots in low (not very low) light are hit and miss as far as focus goes. I tried using the smaller focus point as well (which to be honest, I'm not fully convinced that it really reduces the focus area, perhaps the reason why Oly hasn't explicitly stated that on the EPL1 user manual), but it does not matter. The camera beeps and indicates that the focus is locked but the image is not focused. So, I can only imagine the limitations shooting in VERY low light.
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Old Sep 13, 2010, 2:17 PM   #50
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It could be because it was a defective unit. I have put mine into with the kit lens at 2000iso. And had no issue. You really need a fully fictional unit before you can really evaluate the camera
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