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Old Dec 21, 2010, 6:38 PM   #71
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Tiger Direct has the Canon T2I with kits lnes for $699. If you also got the Tamron 18-250 from B&HPhotovideo, you would be under $1,000.

Go to dealsofamerica for the discount code.

What Jim says is true. There is no camera which does everything perfectly.

Good luck with whatever you choose.
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 7:13 PM   #72
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For outdoor daylight shooting then the minimum I would suggest for someone hoping to get sports shots from the sidelines is the Tamron 70-300. The zooms you've been suggested are a pretty major compromise due to the ranges they cover, yes you get practicality by not needing to have to switch lenses, but you lose quality. I wouldn't want to restrict a camera when you are trying to get sports shots.

I would go Tamron, 70-300 then Canon 70-300mm IS USM then something with f2.8 such as the Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 moving up to the 70-200mm Canons.

When I got into sports shooting back in 2005 the Tamron was my starting lens so I know it can just do the job.... it's not great but acceptable and generally considerably better (when used within the correct limits) than any superzoom.
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 3:32 PM   #73
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I'm really torn. I guess when it comes right down to it there are things a Superzoom can give me that a DSLR can't (f2.7 aperture and up to 840mm zoom in a compact size, and a little easier to "point-and-shoot") and vice versa.

I was really into photography back in the 80's and loved the science of it. Getting married and starting a family got my hands busy carrying other things, so I nearly stopped using my SLR's (Minolta X-700, Canon EOS) in favor of a compact p&s. Once everything went digital I prioritized compactness over IQ and to this date have not gotten a DSLR. It's inevitable that I will someday, but I'm not sure it's the highest priority quite yet, as I'm still favoring convenience (compactness and portability) over higher IQ.

I returned the D3100 last night after coming to the conclusion that if I go to a DSLR I would probably prefer the faster and more powerful Canon T2i. What held me back was that I'm still attracted to features of the SX30, FZ100, and HX1 Superzooms that would cost a lot to match using a DSLR.

I picked up an FZ100 and went into rapid point, zoom, and shoot mode - firing shot after shot. I was amazed at how quickly the camera would focus and take each shot compared to my experience with the SX30. I really couldn't even frame up shots faster than the camera could capture them. If the FZ100 can even approach the SX30 for image stabilization, I think it would be the camera for me at the moment.

Compared to other Superzooms, what are the most glaring weaknesses of the FZ100?
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 5:05 PM   #74
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Tim-

The glaring failing of the FZ100 is its inability to give you the low light level shooting capability that a DSLR can provide.It is ideally an outdoor super zoom.

If all you want is an outdoor super zoom, www.newegg.com has the Kodak Z981 at $179.00. It is certainly not as good as the FZ100, but it is a value.

Perhaps it is time to really analyze under what lighting conditions that you shoot the majority of your photos. If the majority of your photos are under conditions that don't require numerically high ISO settings, then perhaps the FZ100 is really the correct choice for you.

Merry Christmas!

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Old Dec 22, 2010, 5:55 PM   #75
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...Perhaps it is time to really analyze under what lighting conditions that you shoot the majority of your photos. If the majority of your photos are under conditions that don't require numerically high ISO settings, then perhaps the FZ100 is really the correct choice for you...
Well, I have given it quite a bit of thought, and most outdoor shooting where a longer telephoto is desired has usually been in daylight. Indoor shooting is rarer and I've concluded that I wouldn't mind shooting video when lighting would otherwise dictate an unacceptably high ISO in order to stop action.

I've gotten the impression that the SX30 can provide better IQ for still scenes and closer zooms while the FZ100 does better with video and photo-grabbing speed. I guess if SX30 video provides as good a screen capture as FZ100 video for similar long distance shooting, I might lean toward the SX30 for its more dynamic zoom. On the other hand, if the FZ100 autofocus is noticeably faster in reduced light than the SX30, I'd go with the FZ100.

Last edited by nwtim; Dec 22, 2010 at 6:01 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 6:55 PM   #76
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Hi, Tim,
As I wrote before, I have the SX30IS. I had the FZ28.

The SX30IS is good in good light. It's not good for its burst mode, which is more of a trickle mode.

The FZ100 is good for its burst mode in decent light.

Both cameras have very good optical image stabilization.

If you want to shoot in low light (evening, severely overcast, indoor arenas and gyms), you probably want to get a DSLR (maybe the T1I or the T2I or Pentax K-x). These cameras can probably shoot at ISO 1600 or 3200 with passable image quality. However, no lens affordable for you is going to give you the zoom range of either the FZ100 or SX30IS.

All options have downsides. All have advantages. When you make your decision, just go with it and get used to the camera and enjoy it.
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 7:19 PM   #77
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That is great advise, Robbo-

Merry Christmas!

Sarah Joyce
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 7:52 PM   #78
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Quote:
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...
All options have downsides. All have advantages. When you make your decision, just go with it and get used to the camera and enjoy it.
This is what my 14-year old technogeek son says. He wanted me to keep the SX30, so I'll probably go back and get it and start saving up for a T2i.

Thanks all!
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 8:24 PM   #79
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Tim-

That's a plan that will work. The SX30 is a good camera, but it is going to take some real work and very good camera skills to get the most from it. Think of it as a "learning project."

Merry Christmas!

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Old Dec 27, 2010, 11:41 PM   #80
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In case it might be cost-effective for me to cut to the chase and start with a DSLR, I started the thread,
Considering T2i from Costco with 2 kit lenses
. It didn't take long to be brought back to this thread by a reply from Biro where he wrote:
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Perhaps that's the way to go for now - especially since video is important to you. The fact is, superzoom cameras will still be able to catch some good "snapshot" images for you in a smaller, less expensive package with video capability while still delivering reasonable results. Just make sure you buy one of the better superzooms - and make sure it has a viewfinder (even if electronic). You'll thank your lucky stars you have it in bright sunlight - even if resolution isn't that high.

Canon's SX30 IS looks to be a beaut. Zoom range is 24-840mm. 14mp. It just bothers me that Canon doesn't offer 3:2 as one of the camera's aspect ratios, only 4:3 and 16:9. It doesn't shoot RAW either, but you might not need it to. HD video is 720p. Burst mode isn't particularly fast - something like 1.3 frames per second.

The Fujifilm HS10 is a camera I find fascinating. It works a lot more like a DSLR than a superzoom - in fact, you don't toggle a switch to zoom like every other superzoom - you twist the lens and zoom manually just like with a DSLR (much faster). Zoom range is 24-720mm. 10mp. The HS10 offers 3:2, 4:3 and 16:9 aspect ratios. It also shoots RAW and 1080p video. It also has a burst mode that shoots 10 frames per second at the full 10mp resolution. And, personally, I think 10mp works a lot better than 14mp with these small sensors.

Finally, the last superzoom I can recommend is Panasonic's FZ series, of which the FZ100 is the latest. Zoom range is 25-600mm. 14mp. It offers 3:2, 4:3, 16:9 and 1:1 aspect ratios. It shoots RAW and 1080p video. Burst mode is 11 frames per second at full resolution.

Hope this helps.
Now I've wondered about the HS10, as the specs look very much like I'd hope for when it comes to the CMOS sensor, 10 MP imager, RAW capability, manual zoom, and 1080p video. However, when I look for comments on the HS10, the thing that strikes me is that a lot of people seem to imply it's got impressive capability but takes more work to get a good photo than a typical point-and-shoot. Can someone please expand on this?
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