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Old Jan 2, 2011, 2:16 PM   #11
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Ok, I was just at the store playing with the sx130 and have to agree with you, I will be getting the FZ. The question now is the FZ40 or the FZ35. Yes I understand the 40 is newer and any service I might need probably will not be available for the 35. I just don't produce the prints that need the extra 2 MP. I've gone through all the photo comparisons for both on the forum and the images are close enough between the two. Plus, not having the extra pixel density on the CCD should make lowlight and general still better quality correct? The extra zoom would be nice but I don't think the extra 6x is needed. Please let me know if there are any other features I don't know between the two or might make the decision.
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Old Jan 2, 2011, 4:25 PM   #12
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If the Fz35 provides what you need, go for it. It is an excellent buy right now. www. Www.adorama.com has it down to $239.95, Amazon is slightly more. You have made a very good choice.

Sarah Joyce

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Old Jan 2, 2011, 5:03 PM   #13
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I haven't made a decision between the FZ35 and FZ40 either but there are some differences.

- General consensus is that IQ is very close between these 2 models but the edge goes to the FZ35. You may not even see this in typical print sizes though.
- Colors are allegedly better on the FZ35 though I haven't personally been able to compare yet.
- Aperture closes down slightly earlier into the zoom range on the FZ40
- FZ40 24x zoom; FZ35 18x
- FZ40 25mm wide angle; FZ35 27mm
- FZ40 AF Multi 23-area; FZ35 11-area
- FZ40 EV +/-3; FZ35 EV +/-2
- FZ40 3" LCD ; FZ35 2.7"
- FZ40 Burst 1.8; FZ35 2.3
- FZ40 shutter lag 0.001s faster; shutter interval .2s faster
- FZ40 rated for 580 shots; FZ35 470
- FZ40 is heaver by roughly 100g and larger as well
- FZ40 has a slightly more powerful flash
- FZ40 color bracketing has a lot more options now as it allows the use of MyColor modes
- FZ40 has a better lens hood design as it doesn't require an adapter and the hood is easier to attach and remove. It also can be stored in the reverse position. However, doing so may cause vignetting so perhaps you realistically can't store it there.
- FZ40 has a better lens cap design. The cap attaches to the extending part of the barrel and thus can be left on if you just want to review photos, etc.
- FZ40 has some additional in-camera software options such as more color effect modes and in-camera video divide
- FZ35 the stereo mic is located on the flash; FZ40 movies the mic in front of the flash
- Design/ergonomic differences: dedicated movie button is located next to the shutter on the FZ40 whereas it is located on the back of the cam for the FZ35; FZ40 uses a button for playback whereas FZ35 uses a switch; FZ35's Q.Menu button doubles as a joystick whereas FZ40 adds a rear control dial
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Old Jan 2, 2011, 5:36 PM   #14
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I have actually used both the FZ35 and the FZ40. The differences are really rather small. Handling is about the same. I am in my 4th day with the FZ40, so my feelings might change. I used my FZ35 for over 6 months, then got an offer for it that I could not turn down. I ended up making money on the camera after 6 months of use.

As of today, I would choose the FZ40.

Sarah Joyce
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Old Jan 3, 2011, 10:51 AM   #15
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I bought the FZ35. Any firmware or anything else to worry about when it arrives?
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Old Jan 3, 2011, 1:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meriorage View Post
I bought the FZ35. Any firmware or anything else to worry about when it arrives?
Nope.

http://panasonic.jp/support/global/c...oad/index.html
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Old Jan 3, 2011, 2:30 PM   #17
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meriorage-

Congratulations on your new Panasonic FZ35. I sure you will enjoy the camera a lot. As I mentioned previously, we have a very active FZ Group in our Panasonic Folder, where you can find lots of good comradeship and help.

I have also attached a copy of the FZ35 Beginner's Guide that I wrote last summer.


Panasonic FZ-35 beginner’s Guide

The easiest way to get started is to first read completely through the Owner’s Manual and charge the battery. When you are ready to take your first photos, do this:

(1) Set “P” on the Mode Selector. “P” stands for Programmed Auto Mode. It is an Automatic Mode that allows the user to make adjustments to the ISO/Sensitivity, to the Exposure Compensation, the Flash Compensation, the WB or White Balance, the Burst Mode, the Scene Modes, and the Focusing Options.

(2) Set to ISO to “Auto ISO. You probably want to consider limiting how far the camera can increase the ISO/Sensitivity setting by itself. I would recommend that for outdoor photos that you limit the ISO/Sensitivity increase to ISO 400. For indoor use limit the ISO increase to ISO 800.


(3) Set the WB to White Balance to “Auto WB” when shooting out doors. If you are shooting with flash indoors you can keep the Auto WB in place. If you are shooting indoors without flash, use tungsten or incandescent WB, it is indicated by the small logo symbol of a light bulb. Set the Flash mode selector to the Auto Flash position. This is not a perfect mode and there are two instances where the camera can be confused on when to deploy the flash.

(4) Set the focus point initially to center point focus. This allows you to select
exactly where the camera will focus. Focus is attained by gently pressing the
shutter release to the half way point. When the camera locks focus, it will signal
that focus lock to you. Now, while holding the shutter release at the half way
point, re-frame your photo as necessary, using the EVF, or Electronic View
Finder.

(5) When you at pleased with the photo framing, gently depress the shutter to its full length. The emphasis here is on the word gently. Some users refer to the action as squeezing the shutter slowly. The main thing you want to avoid is jabbing at the shutter, as this will cause sudden camera movement overpowering the IS or image stabilization system and blurring the photo.

(6) After the photo has been recorded, check how the exposure looks on the cameras LCD screen. If it is to light, it is over exposed. If it is too dark, it is under exposed. You are looking for the midway point where the properly exposed photo looks like are properly tuned TV set. A photo that is too light can be correct by using Minus Exposure Compensation. Make the initial Minus Exposure Compensation setting EV-0.7, take the photo, and check the result on the camera’s LCD screen. Then increase or decrease the Exposure Compensation to attain the proper LCD screen appearance. If the photo is too dark, you will have to apply Positive Exposure Compensation. Begin with a setting of EV+0.7, and then again adjust the Exposure compensation again, as required to attain the proper LCD screen appearance.


(7) After the photo is taken, you will notice that a flashing red light will blink on the camera. This is an indication that the camera is recording the image to the camera’s flash memory card.

(8) If you are indoors and desire to take a flash photo using the camera’s built-in flash unit (a) check that the Flash Selector is still selected to the Auto Flash mode. (b) recheck that the WB is still set to Auto ISO. (c) Keep the camera to subject distance at 11.5 feet or less to achieve the proper exposure. If you are photographing a group and you must increase the amount of light projected from the camera’s built-in flash unit so that the Flash Range can be increased from the normal maximum Flash Range of 11.5 feet, to a greater value. The adjustment on the Flash Compensation scale works in the same way as Exposure Compensation did. Positive Flash Compensation increases the flash output and the Flash Range. Negative Flash Compensation reduces the flash output and the Flash Range.


(9) If you want to take a close up photo, where the camera to subject distance is 30 inches or less, you will have to select the Macro or Close-up Mode whose symbol is a small Tulip logo. Again the same photo taking procedure will apply. Gently depress the shutter release to the half way point, the camera locks the focus and give you the focus locked signal. Re-frame your focus as necessary after allowing the camera to focus on the exact point desired. If the photo environment’s lighting is low, select the flash, WB , and Auto ISO, as previously described. The built-in flash unit will reduce the light output of the flash due to the reduced Flash Range between camera and subject in this Macro or Close-up mode. After taking your close-up photo check the camera’s LCD screen for proper exposure. If the exposure is too light or too dark you will use the Exposure Compensation procedures outlined above. If you are taking the Macro or Close-up photo while employing flash, once again check the LCD screen for proper exposure. If the result is too light or too dark, you will use the Flash Compensation feature as described previously.

(10)As lighting conditions change you will have to adjust your camera’s WB to get
the correct color in your photo. There are fixed WB settings for bright sunshine,
cloudy or foggy conditions, tungsten or incandescent lighting, and for fluorescent
lighting (several varieties).

(11)Keep in mind that there are indeed minimum focus distances for each lens
position. In the Macro or Close up mode, the minimum focus distance is 2.5
inches. In the normal focus mode, without any zooming, the minimum focus
distance is 36 inches, or 3 feet. As the camera zooms out further, expect the
minimum focus to also increase. So, if the camera will not lock focus, the
problem is most probably that you are at less than the minimum focus distance
for that lens setting.

(12) The better the light, the better your photos will be. As the light level decreases
measurably you will find the photo quality will fall and the camera will have a
harder time recording your photo. So good light is essential to good photos.

(13) Photographers are like concert pianists: the more you practice and learn, the
better your photos will be.

(14) Take your time and learn how the changes that you make to your camera,
directly affect how your camera records your photo.

(15) Here is a quick review of the options on your Mode Selector:

IA= Intelligent Auto. Keep in mind that the ISO/Sensitivity range can be selected in the camera menu as well.
P=Programed Auto. This works just like Full Automatic only it allows you to make some changes to ISO/Sensitivity, flash options, Exposure Compensation, Flash Compensation, White Balance etc.
S=Shutter Priority. You select the shutter speed and the camera adjusts for the proper exposure by adjusting the aperture.
A=Aperture Priority. You select the aperture and the camera automatically sets the proper exposure by adjust the shutter speed.
M=Manual Mode. You select the shutter speed and aperture and the camera reports if your selection will produce the produce the proper exposure, by displaying the wrong exposure in red color and the correct exposure in green color. So understand that using the Manual Mode will require some manual adjustments on your part.


Sarah Weber
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