Go Back   Steve's Digicams Forums > Digicam Help > What Camera Should I Buy?

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old Apr 30, 2011, 11:36 PM   #101
Senior Member
 
shoturtle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Frankfurt AM
Posts: 11,348
Default

what are your settings. How was the lighting. Are you shooting in scene mode or aperture priority? A sample of the shot with the exif data would really help out.

If you are using just the kit lens, you really need your shutter speed to be above 1/400 sec. You can shoot in Av mode at F4-5.6, and pick a 800 iso if there is good lighting, that should let you get some fast shutter speeds.
__________________
Super Frequent Flyer, no joke. Ex Patriot and loving it.
Canon Eos 60D, T1i/500D, Eos1, Eos 630, Olympus EPL-1, and a part time Pentax K-X shooter.
shoturtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Apr 30, 2011, 11:47 PM   #102
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 69
Default

shoturtle in you go to the link I have previously posted and select the "Race Day" album you will see what i mean.Clicking on the pictue in the album should give you the data you want and all of them are stright from the sd card. It was cloudy, and the camera was in auto.
tjamscad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Apr 30, 2011, 11:52 PM   #103
Senior Member
 
shoturtle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Frankfurt AM
Posts: 11,348
Default

Take the camera out of auto iso, for the overcast day, 100 iso is to low to get faster shutter speed. You need to push it up to 800iso or 1600iso. That is the biggest problem. You kit zoom is max wide at f5.6, so you will need to compensate with higher iso. The XS or A330 would have had the same problems with if shoot at 100 with their kit lenses. Down at 1/80 and 1/100 of a sec is just to slow of a shutter speed.
__________________
Super Frequent Flyer, no joke. Ex Patriot and loving it.
Canon Eos 60D, T1i/500D, Eos1, Eos 630, Olympus EPL-1, and a part time Pentax K-X shooter.
shoturtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 1, 2011, 12:02 AM   #104
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 69
Default

Would you recommend the "P" or "C/A" modes? I am learning what all the terms mean just not how to apply them to each other.
tjamscad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 1, 2011, 12:05 AM   #105
Senior Member
 
shoturtle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Frankfurt AM
Posts: 11,348
Default

action, neither, shoot in Av. Pick the largest aperture you can, and up your iso. you should see the shutter speed when you have press. It it is not at 1/400. You will have motion blur
__________________
Super Frequent Flyer, no joke. Ex Patriot and loving it.
Canon Eos 60D, T1i/500D, Eos1, Eos 630, Olympus EPL-1, and a part time Pentax K-X shooter.
shoturtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 1, 2011, 12:12 AM   #106
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 69
Default

Ok, pick the largest aperture and up the ISO past 400 for action shots? I can try that tomorrow.
tjamscad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 1, 2011, 12:14 AM   #107
Senior Member
 
shoturtle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Frankfurt AM
Posts: 11,348
Default

400 in good lighting, 800-1600 is overcast days like the one on the shoot.
__________________
Super Frequent Flyer, no joke. Ex Patriot and loving it.
Canon Eos 60D, T1i/500D, Eos1, Eos 630, Olympus EPL-1, and a part time Pentax K-X shooter.
shoturtle is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 1, 2011, 10:06 AM   #108
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Belize & UK
Posts: 463
Default

Were you using the centre point to focus on the subjects? In general how were you taking the pictures?

It's not directly relevant, but I have a recently-bought 7D and I'm trying to get totally familiar with it. I have found on occasion that I get better results when I simply leave all the decisions to the camera (other than where to point the lens!) than when I try to second-guess it.
__________________
Canon 5D & 7D (both gripped), 24-105L, 100-400L, EF-S 15-85, 50 f1.8, Tamron 28-75, Sigma 12-24, G10, A1+10 FD lenses, tripods, lights etc
peterbj7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 1, 2011, 10:12 AM   #109
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 69
Default

I tend to leave it up to the camera. I am going to leave it alone angle go through the manual again maybe I missed something like turn on the camera. I did read there is no spot meetering so I am going to have to look at that again. O think the a330 and the xs had that.
tjamscad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old May 1, 2011, 10:20 AM   #110
Administrator
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Savannah, GA (USA)
Posts: 22,378
Default

Spot Metering is not the same as using a Spot Focus point. ;-)

I don't know if the Canon models have spot metering or not (the Sony does though). But, that doesn't make any difference, because you don't want to use Spot Metering anyway in most conditions unless you know exactly what you're doing and are very careful to meter on a neutral subject (otherwise, you'll get underexposed images if you meter on something that's too light, or overexposed images if you meter on something that's too dark). I did see some overexposed images in your samples, and didn't check the EXIF carefully. But, I suspect you were probably messing around with metering settings and caused the overexposure. Again, your metering mode is not the same thing as your focus point anyway (two entirely different settings), and your problems with blurry runners don't have anything to do with either one of those settings.

Many new camera owners do more harm than good trying to change settings when they don't understand what the settings are for. ;-)

Your main malfunction with the blurry photos is that your shutter speeds were too slow to freeze action, resulting in blur from subject movement. Focus wasn't the main issue. Metering wasn't the main issue.

Your shutter speeds were too slow (they were at around 1/100 second for those photos of runners), because your ISO speed was too low for the lighting and aperture being used to freeze any movement.

As already mentioned by shoturtle, you'll need to increase your ISO speed for that type of subject (each time you double it, you'll get shutter speeds twice as fast for the same aperture and lighting).

But, if you're not comfortable with that type of thing, try using the Sports Scene Mode and let the camera worry about setting those types of things for you (since it will know you want to shoot moving subjects using that scene mode and should adjust the rest of the settings for you).

Using ordinary auto modes, it doesn't know you're trying to shoot moving subjects, which is why your shutter speeds are too slow to freeze movement, resulting in blurry photos (and that has nothing to do with metering or focus).
JimC is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 8:17 PM.