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Old Jun 20, 2011, 9:45 AM   #11
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What the heck, I'll rock the boat here...

Yes, the full frames will capture highly detailed images. And will deliver great prints. And Sharpshooter is correct in his recommendations for light.


I agree with Peripatetic, it is the skill of the photographer and their personal style that is the marketable item here. So I ask, why the obsession with the "big guns". The high end point and shooters are very capable of capturing quality images. And when well handled, their results can equal those shot with a 'blad.

Have a read of this rather illuminating review comparing prints from aHasselblad H2 and Phase One P45+ back against those from a Canon G10...
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Old Jun 20, 2011, 8:09 PM   #12
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Hey y'all, I'm mikelets456's daughter, thanking you personally for the input. I thought that what peripatetic said was very interesting, considering that I would consider my style to be very photojournalistic in nature. I'm currently shooting with a Nikon D40, and for almost everything that I shoot, I use a 50mm 1.8 and natural light. I have developed a style of my own, and I want a camera that can exemplify this style.

For the time being, I have decided that I would like to try out the Nikon D7000. Does anyone agree/disagree that this would be a good decision? Here's my website/portfolio if it will help you get a grasp on my personal style. Thanks again for your time!

OH, and I'm also investing in a flash. I'm going to have to force myself to use it because I am NOT a big fan, but there's definitely no getting around it. Any suggestions for a flash that's more natural-looking?
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Old Jun 20, 2011, 8:47 PM   #13
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There is no flash that is "more natural" than another. Stick with the nikon flashes - an SB600 is a good starter - the sb800 is the true workhorse though (the sb900 has a reputation for shutting down as it is very conservative about burning out - and that tendancy has a number of pros a bit put-off by it). Don't go any less than the sb600 though - you'll need the power for reception halls with high ceilings and for refresh rates.

There are some keys - using a diffuser (gary fong lightspere or stofen omnibounce) when you're forced to use direct flash. You also want to use a flash bracket - the bracket will get the flash away from the camera when using direct so that eliminates red-eye. But when you can, you want to bounce the flash off the ceiling or a wall.

It's going to take practice, but you need to learn proper flash use. I took a look at your wedding shots - you've got some nice shots but they really illustrate why you need to learn flash. Your outdoor flash have a lot of hot spots on the subjects and blown highlights. Dropping the camera's exposure and using flash will help prevent that from happening. Your indoor shots, you've got a lot of shadows in the eye area which is not flattering. So, even using a flash just for fill indoors is very beneficial. It's essential for most indoor receptions. The d7000 should do just fine as a body. Paired with a flash and bracket. You're also going to need a little more flexibility in your lens choices. You're going to need something longer than 50mm for indoor work - I suggest you add a 70-200 2.8 VR II to your list. Sometimes you don't have the flexibility of getting withing 5 or 6 feet to get a tight shot. Get at least the kit lens with the d7000 - you'll need something wide for shots of the wedding party indoors - and since you'll be shooting at f8-f16 it doesn't need to be a high end lens just yet. The advice about the backup gear, contracts and liability still stands. Home owners won't cover you in a professional endeavor and if a guest gets injured because they knock your camera on their head (think 4 year old kid) and you lose a claim for $50,000 you'll regret it. Research for contract examples but have your final template reviewed by a local attorney. That's money well spent.
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Old Jun 20, 2011, 9:00 PM   #14
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Also not mentioned yet is to make sure you have high speed memory cards for the camera so if you shoot in bursts it can kep up with the buffer and not slow you done. There is always the debate of go weather to go with a few smaller say 4GB memory cards vs a 16GB card. I prefer to use a larger card so that I don;t have to worry about changing it when the action starts to heat up. Make sure whatever you do that the cards are fast (for example if using SDHC cards get a class 10 card) and make sure you have more memory than you think you will use especially if you plan to shoot in burst mode at some point. You can't just stop and unload a card and expect the action to stop. I know a pro who shoots high school sports and weddings and he uses 2x 16GB Sandisc Exterme IIIs plus 4x 8GB cards (one is an older ultra II)..... he said for a full days shooting of a wedding from capturing the bride getting her hair done till the car pulls away at the reception he can fill more than one 16GB card........

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