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Old Apr 16, 2006, 2:26 PM   #1
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i have placed a message and have not as yet recieved any response, soi have re worded it in the hope i can get some advice from other members

i currently own an olympus 765uz with a 10x zoom, i am looking to upgrade this camera, as at full and macro zooms, unless i use the mini tripod i bought, i get blurry pictures, i do love the picture quality of this camera, when i get it right, i use the automatic and camera scene modes, at all times, as i am not, i suppose, what you would call a photograper, more someone who takes photos of what he sees and likes, my main interest at this time,are macros of flowers and the use of the zoom for birds/wildlife.

i seem to have become confused with all the cameras out there, as i want a large zoom camera with image stabilization on it, at this time all the reviews, seem to point to noize in the pictures, at certain iso settings, as i only use the camera in auto and pre-mode settings, i am unaware wether this problem would affect me?, i have also tested the olympus e500, but, to be honest, i wonder if this is too much camera for myself, as i do not fancy having to change lens all the time, (due to being bone idol)also, i presume i would still be subject to camera shake as well, even with this camera, however the two lens kit does give me a similar zoom length to my 765uz, it also has the dust removal thingy, as being a clumsy person i would probably end up with dust problems, (if i bought the nikon d50, for example) users of ANY LARGE ZOOM CAMERAS, please help, as i have hung on for the new sony cameras, but after reading all the reviews, up till now,i am wondering wether to stick with the765uz or carry on saving for the e500 dslr, or the konika minolta dslr with image stabilization on it



PLEASE HELP A VERY CONFUSED PERSON, THANKS FOR ANY HELP OR ADVICE OFFERED
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Old Apr 16, 2006, 2:47 PM   #2
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Having owned an Olympus C-750 and C-765 I surely do understand that problem you have posted about.Have you ever considered forsaking the auto everything mode and getting control of your shutter speed? It is rather easily done on the C-765. When you control your shutter speed, you will have substantial control over the camera movement that shows up in your images as blurry photos.

I also own an E-500 two lens kit and can tell you that, based on my own experience, that your photos will greatly increase in quality when you move from the C-765 to the E-500.

There is a formula for proper/adequate shutter speeds when zoomed: it is 1/the effective focal length of the zoom. Thus when zoomed to 10X which equals a focal length of 360 to 380mm, you should be using a minimum shutter speed of 1/400th of a second to overcome those small involutary hand movements that cause camera movement.

I would get used to the shutter preference mode on either the C-765 or even better the E-500 and enjoy some great, sharp, crystal clear photos.

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Old Apr 16, 2006, 2:56 PM   #3
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That blurriness is caused by hand shake, that's why image stabilization is such important feature, non-SLRs can't rise ISO much without lot of noise so they have to increase exposure time meaning very easy to get blurry pics.
But if you take shots in bright sunlight there shouldn't be problem unless cameras manically wants to use smaller apertures.

Also macro photography causes own requirements because depth of field is very small so even slight camera movement can cause target to "drift away" from focusing distance. Also tele macro with that very long tele again causes handshake problems.
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Old Apr 16, 2006, 5:51 PM   #4
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from your response, i presume you are advising me to forget the image stabilizor cameras and learn how to use the765uz, then i presume upgrade eventually to the e500, if so, can i ask is the 500 quicker at taking pictures, as if i use the zoom on the 765uz, i can have a brew and something to eat whilst i am waiting for it to take a picture, also my concern over the dust problem i have read about on digital slr, does in your opinion the system work?



thanks, alan
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Old Apr 17, 2006, 8:23 AM   #5
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alan-

I sincerely believe that you are misunderstanding what ET and Iwer attempting to convey. We were not beingjudgemental in any way, and we were certainly not putting you down, as well.

Firstly we were attempting to convey to you that while, a very nice feature, that IS is not a silver bullet or a magical cure for everything, it will help constrain, but certainly not totally eliminate camera movement. Camera movementcan bebest addressed by using the correct shutter speed for any given situation.

Secondly, ET and I were being respectful of your budget, and we were attempting to provide a "work around" that could keep you using the Olympus C-675 with good results, untill you were ready to purchase the Olympus E-500. We were certainly not forcing you to deal with the C-765 and its slowness as some sort of pennance.

IMHO, the sooner you can move to the E-500 the better, but at the sametime that I am saying that, I am also respectful of your budget constraints. The E-500 is a somewhat larger camera with a decidedly better grip, both of which will go a long way toward reducing camera movement and producing better images.

Truly we were trying to work with you as much as anything. After all that is the goal of this forum, and ET and I are active members who believe in that philosophy.

MT
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Old Apr 17, 2006, 11:58 AM   #6
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Steve's review actually recommends either tripod or monopod when using full tele because it doesn't have IS.
In cloudy day difference between ~1/50s shutter speed enabled by IS and 1/400 without it can be big factor so in non-SLRs stabilization is very recommendable feature when tele is longer than pocket camera standard ~100mm.


Slow zooming is feature of "button zooms", it doesn't come from it being non-SLR.
With button zooms time for zooming in is generally in class of couple seconds, and they can't get faster than that because it would destroy accuracy of framing completely.
In cameras with manual/mechanical zoom zooming works as fast and accurately as your hand.


And you're right that dust can be considerable problem with digital SLRs because that dust just accumulates to sensor because same sensor is used all the time unlike with film cameras which use "disposable sensor".
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Old Apr 17, 2006, 1:39 PM   #7
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[align=left]dear, mt and et, i must apologize if my response sounded abrupt, it certinly was not meant to, i have never done this sort of contact before, as i prefer to speak to people on a face to face basis, i am very grateful to you both, forany comments and advice,if it improves my camera perfomance i will definately give anything ago, i would be very happy indeed if i can master this camera, main reason being,i do not wish to buy any camera if it is not a big improvement or positive upgrade, the other as in my original post, on normal shooting i love the photos i get, today i went out to try and take some photos useing the iso settings, that you mentioned, however i did not take any photos today as my wife took me in every shop in leeds (yorkshire), i have found a site that explains how to use and set the camera up, i will be moitoring that site closely, i just wish i could take some photos like the ones i have seen on this site,[/align]
[align=left][/align]
[align=left]best wishes to you both and again sorry, if my comments caused offence, i did not mean to[/align]
[align=left][/align]
[align=left]thanks, alan[/align]
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Old Apr 17, 2006, 2:23 PM   #8
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I have used the Olympus C-650. C-670 etc and I am well aware of that camera. These camera's are very good for the features they have to its zoom andi have liked the picture quality of these camera's. These camera's are also good as they had super Macro. The only thing which we might be missing is the Anti-shake which canon is providing it in their Long zoom version. But have to check its performance and differences.

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0602/06022111canons3is.asp

Right now I own a Nikon D50 and like it too. But with DSLR's we may need to have multiple lenses for each occasion which might be painfull for the people who have upgraded from P&S camera's. So its all upto us what to compromise upon. KM 5D might be a good upto if you would like to get anti-shake or else Nikon D50 might also be a good option but VR (Vibration reduction) lens might be costly.

http://www.dpreview.com/news/0602/06...onafsvr105.asp

http://www.nikonlinks.com/equipment_lenses_macro.htm
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