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Old Apr 16, 2004, 9:59 AM   #11
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Wow....even my guru (Tomsch) bows to your techniques! Yes, I'd be interested in your approaches as well.
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Old Apr 19, 2004, 7:15 AM   #12
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Thanks folks !

I use my Wimberley gimbal head on a Gitzo 1325 carbon-fibre tripod. The Gitzo has no central column, and I only use the first set of tripod "leg extensions", which with the Wimberley head takes the whole set up to about 5.5ft above the ground.

I find this is about the ideal height as it allows me to use the tripod without adjustment on straight ahead, slightly down hill or up-hill subjects. OK I have to stoop slightly for straight ahead, and I'm on my knees for up-hill, but rather that than continually fiddling with the tripod legs. Also, with the legs kept reasonably short, the set-up is very rigid.

I don't tend to lock the Wimberley on subject unless I'm working with a realy co-operative one, but I do tighten the X and Y axis controls a little so that it needs just slightly more than finger pressure to move the camera and lens. My goal here is smooth movement but ensuring that things stay where they're put. I've got the lens and camera well balanced on the Wimberley, this is just to help.

I use a short (mechanical) shutter release all of the time, and to date I've employed the D100 "anti-shock" setting for all shots. This introduces a half second delay between pressing the shutter release and taking the shot, but it does allow any vibration caused by mirror movement to settle down. I've never used a teleconverter allong with this setup, but I understand that if you do "anti-shock" is a must.

Employing the shutter release I don't touch the lens, camera or triopd at all when taking a shot.

Regards,
Graham.
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Old Apr 19, 2004, 8:14 AM   #13
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Thanks for the info.

So then you don't put anything (a beanbag, for example) over the center of the lens to help reduce the vibration? I've heard of using that when you don't/can't put your hand there.

I've considered using a remove trigger so that when I get tired waiting to push the shutter I can shift to a better position for my back/legs. Waiting for the animal to do something interesting can be a tiring thing.

The delay on the 10D is around 3 seconds... I think I'd like the 1/2 second better.

Yes, your 500mm should be able to take a 1.4xTC very well.

And I'll say it again, you choose the background very well. That is something I find extremely difficult to get. A good smooth background.

Did you you plan this location? (obviously you can't plan the shot exactly, you don't know if the bird will be there.)

Eric
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Old Apr 19, 2004, 9:31 AM   #14
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Eric,

No bean bag. The vibration dosn't seem too bad, but that may be the combination of the lens design, tripod and gimbal head.

Half a second is ok. I can press the shutter release when a wader comes into view and still have it in the frame when the shutter fires. Three seconds seems a long time.

The location was only planned in as much as I know that a pair of Stonechats live in the area. Sometimes they are on one side of the path (on the hillside), sometimes in a clump of gorse just by some marsh. I was lucky in that they were in the gorse by the marsh, that way there was nothing behind the bird for several hundred feet then just more hillside. I was also assisted by being able to angle the tripod legs to bring me down to the same level as the bird. Sore on the knees though in the rocky parts.

Regards,
Graham.
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