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Old Mar 6, 2006, 11:31 PM   #11
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Thanks NHL

The flash was set to high-speed sync so I could shoot over 1/200th of a second. The Rebel XT seems to be limiting my choices. I took the picture of the gargoyle in my living room from a distance of 18 feet in low light. Flash was set on high-speed sync at +2/3 compensation and a shutter speed of 1/500. No processing other than converting from RAW to jpeg.

One gripe I have with the XT is that previewing shots on the LCD all look good. Put them on the computer and they are anything but.

Any more tips would be greatly appreciated.

//jim

Last edited by killdeer0007; Sep 13, 2009 at 4:08 PM.
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Old Mar 6, 2006, 11:43 PM   #12
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Same setup but flash compensation set at +3. Looks a little better.

//jim

Last edited by killdeer0007; Sep 13, 2009 at 4:08 PM.
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Old Mar 7, 2006, 9:13 AM   #13
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killdeer0007 wrote:
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Any more tips would be greatly appreciated.
Always use the manual mode when you do a fill, and the EV -2..-1..v..+1..+2 scale in your viewfinder will be your best friend. Here's why:

1. The flash will always expose properly when it's on automatic (@ the v marker)
2. When you're on manual you can then with the aperture/shutter 'dim' the background down as desired as the pointer on the EV -2..-1..v..+1..+2 scale moves to the left (-)
3. You rarely need any compensation whatsoever (well I lie, may be possibly on that white gargoyle)
4. Make sure you don't exceed the X-sync speed of 1/200s or you'll lose your flash coverage as explained above for High-Speed (FP)sync!!!
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Old Mar 7, 2006, 9:49 AM   #14
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Jim,

First thing, don't trust your LCD monitor to see how bright the final image would look. Check the hsitogram instead. If everything is pushed to the left, you got underexposure problems and unless it is small, you can't correct it later without adding lot more noise.

Second, I always shoot in Av mode and with flash in high speed sync. I am using my 100-400L at 400mm most of the time and use flash as fill only, not flash as main source of light. In most of my fill-flash situations, my ss is already higher than my flash sync speed. Sure tha flash output would be reduced at higher shutter speeds but that's why you are using Better Beamer.

With Better Beamer you range gets extended a lot and at same time, you flash output is reduced saving battery. For most of my shots, I have flash compensation set to anywhere from -2EV to -1EV, rarely anything more (i set flash comp on my 10D not the flash). This is with BB. make sure your flash is set to 50mm range when using lens of >300mm along with BB.
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Old Mar 7, 2006, 1:40 PM   #15
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bobbyz

Check this: http://www.pbase.com/canon550ex/image/23295788
-> See how much GN (i.e. distance) you're losing with high-speed sync





Quote:
With Better Beamer you range gets extended a lot and at same time, you flash output is reduced saving battery.
Not true at all!!!

-> You're actually using more energy - the flash duration is actually longer with less intensity as compared to a normal burst which is shorter but more powerful!
Also because there's not enough light to cover the distance the camera will try to put out even more light from the flash to compensate (for the lack of light)!

See how little a normal flash pulse is as compared to a wider High-Speed (FP) sync flash pulse???



A normal flash pulse is much more efficient! :idea:



I use it as a fill too (i.e. not as a main light), and never in High-Speed Sync mode (1/200s f/6.7 at 400.0mm iso400 with Flash) - No Better Beamer required:



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